THE ENCHANTRESS

By Denise Oblak

Imagine a place where cell phones don’t ring, faxes are non-existent and modems won’t dial up. The only traffic you’ll encounter is an occasional Blue Heron flying overhead. A place so quiet that if you close your eyes you can almost hear the chanting of the ancients who inhabited the area millennia ago. There’s a spiritual quality about this place. Let the stress of everyday life drain from your body as you ponder the enchantment of this place. This place is the Dolores River, in the heart of Utah’s Canyon country, and one of the world’s best-kept secrets since being discovered by Spanish explorers in 1765. Since then, only a handful of adventurers have come to experience this great stretch of water, mainly because of its remoteness.

Following the completion of the McPhee Dam and reservoir in 1984, the river running season on the Dolores has been limited to the spring run-off period, usually late April through early June. During that time, releases are made from the dam to allow for the influx of snowmelt into the reservoir. One big advantage – river runners are guaranteed a spectacular wildflower show – everything from flowering cacti and Indian paintbrush to desert primrose blossoms.

The Dolores River’s headwaters originate in the high peaks of southwestern Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, flowing northward past the eastern edge of Utah’s LaSal Mountains and finally merging with the Colorado River about 30 miles upstream from Moab. Throughout this course, it flows through five major western life zones beginning with the Alpine at its headwaters to the Upper Sonoran along its lower segments.

With a span of 173 uninterrupted river miles below the reservoir, the Dolores is second only to the Grand Canyon in length in the lower 48. Some commercial river guides and outfitters run trips of 12 days to cover the entire distance. More often, shorter trips on shorter segments are run. For example, the put-in for the lower Delores segment is at Gateway, Colorado, and the take-out near Dewey Bridge just below the confluence with the Colorado. This 32-mile stretch usually takes two or three days, depending on water level.

For diversity, the Dolores takes no back seat to other southwestern rivers. Rapids range from mild to wild, usually Class II through IV. On the Gateway Canyon stretch, Stateline Rapid is a mile-long, boulder-ridden class IV that will command your complete attention. Options open to rafters include paddle rafts, oar boats and inflatable kayaks. Most hard shell kayakers will choose to portage Stateline Rapid.

Below Stateline, the river runs quiet, yet serenely, to Beaver Canyon, one of the premier campsites along the way. Here, mature cottonwood trees provide shade, and a short walk from camp reveals petroglyphs on huge boulders at the mouth of the canyon. Beaver Canyon is just one of several drainages into the lower Dolores that provide excellent opportunities for hiking and exploration. In addition, Thompson Canyon features some narrows, and in an unnamed slickrock canyon nearby, you can practice your echoes. In these places, as in all of Utah’s backcountry, take only pictures, leave only footprints.

Whether you’re looking for big whitewater thrills or a chance to kick back and enjoy the solitude of running a remote river section, the lower Dolores and Gateway Canyon is the perfect choice and appropriate for families, individuals and small groups. The Dolores, the enchantress. Come see why.